A gaming geek blog inspired by the grandiose science fiction imagery from games, comics, books, and popular culture.
Saturday, July 26, 2014
New Ogre map sketch
I wasn't satisfied with my previous Monopolis scenario map, so I sketched another version on paper. I decided to flip the map to landscape mode instead of portrait--in other words, the river now runs along the short axis of the map instead of the long axis. I'm going to use this drawing to lay out the terrain for my scenario on my Corsec hex mat.
The attackers will come in on the left side, meaning it will take several turns before they're in range of the city. The symbols above are pretty self-explanatory for gamers and include the terrain types on my other map. I added some more terrain to the left side of the board to slow down the invaders. I also included a new terrain type for this map, swamp, as it's the only thing other than rivers and towns that slow down Ogres. Any suggestions on how to easily and cheaply model swamp terrain?
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2 comments:
For the swamps, perhaps start with thin MDF, cut to fit in your hexes. Paint them with dark brown or dark green. Varnish the hell out of them with Polyurethane to give them a strong watery look. Edge each tile with a thin line of green flock to make them look more like watery swamps instead of glossy tiles. If you've got small 6mm-scale trees, they'd combine well with the tiles.
My 2-Cents. Keep up the good work on the blog!
Swamps - get some flat, relatively rigid material - Platic card or formica for cabnitet tops etc works well. Cut with a fine tooth blade and saber saw into rounded areas roughly equal to your hexes (including some 2's, 4's, 7's, and maybe 10's). Paint it a bright, shiny. high gloss (water reflecting light)sickly yellowish- green-brown color(s. Use Durhams Water putty opr similar to make small, rasied "islands". While the putty is still setting, usae bristle cut off of ol;d toothbrushes or similar and press them into the putty to represent rushes. When the putty hardens,paint the uislans a suitable color, then dry brush the reeds with a light yellow/tan color, allow to dry, and dry brush the tips with a drak reddish bown color. Brush the isalnsd with No days, maybe add some "clum,ps" of graa. Done! I made mine this way 35 years ago, still holding up well (actuially, I used "Liquid water on top of the painted "water, but really, that's messy and unnecessary).
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